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Troubleshooting

12v/220v Camping Fridges28 Questions

  • The solenoid valve could be stuck. In an emergency situation, tap the valve with the back of a screwdriver to loosen it.
  • The temperature sensor on the thermostat could be faulty. Check the relays on older versions of the unit.
  • The solenoid valve may need to be replaced.
  • The temperature controller may be faulty. Temperatures may vary by 2 – 5 degrees.
  • There could be oil present in the cooling system. In this case, the unit will need to be flushed and regassed.
  • The filter drier may need to be replaced.
  • With 12v portable fridge freezers, make sure that the voltage going to the unit is constant and above the start-up voltage depending on the voltage cut out selected.
  • Make sure that the condenser is clean and dust-free.
  • Make sure that there is sufficient ventilation around the unit. The temperature may vary by a few degrees depending on ambient temperatures.
  • Check the condenser fan to make sure the compressor is not overheating.
  • With 12v, make sure that the voltage going to the unit is constant and above the start up voltage depending on the voltage cut out selected.
  • Bypass the temperature sensor and the temperature controller. If the compressor does not start, the compressor electronics could be faulty
  • The temperature sensor could be faulty
  • If it is an OC fault, the unit will not start. In an emergency, bypass the sensor by bridging T and C on the compressor controller. This will cause the unit to freeze to the maximum temperature and any other temperature selection will not be possible
  • Check  that the 15amp blade fuse next to 12v input has not blown.
  • Check that the fuse in the 12v cable male socket is still intact.
  • Try a different 12v cable to make sure the cable is not damaged.
  • If the unit switches on with 220v but not with 12v on older version power supply, connect wiring on GB+ with V+ (220v and 12v then cannot be connected at the same time.
  • Check the voltage on the vehicle outlet socket.
  • Make sure that the power supply is not faulty.
  • Bypass the surge or voltage protector if there is one present.
  • Check that the power source is working by testing another appliance in the plug point.
  • Make sure that the power supply cable of the unit is not faulty by testing the unit in another plug point.

Possible causes:

  • The compressor system is blocked.
  • There is a leak in the refrigerant system / (Refrigerant fluid is leaking).

The solenoid is stuck. In an emergency, use the back of a screwdriver and gently tap the valve to release it.

Possible Causes

  • There is oil in the cooling system. The unit needs to be flushed and re-gassed
  • Check that the filter dryer is clear – it will freeze up if it is blocked.

The temperature sensor may be faulty

The 3 loud beeps are alarm warnings that:

  • The fridge has lost power or is disconnected
  • The voltage is being/has been cut off
  • The door is open

The interior light is likely faulty. Please disconnect the light

  • The cooler is not level or has been placed improperly
  • Some parts may have come loose
  • The baskets inside may be shifting around
  1. Check the voltage.
  2. Check the voltage cut-off setting.
  3. Check that there is enough ventilation (air-flow) around the cooler.
  4. Check that the vents, compressor and condenser units are clean.
  5. Check the compressor electronics.
  6. Check that the condenser fan is running, so that compressor isn’t overheating.
  • The compressor system is blocked.
  • There may be a leak in the refrigerant system / (Refrigerant fluid is leaking).

Possible Causes:

  • The condenser fan is not running.
  • The condenser fan is dirty.
  • The filter dryer is blocked.
  • The unit is low on gas.
  • The temperature sensor is faulty.

The solenoid may be stuck.

To resolve in an emergency, use the back of a screwdriver and gently tap the valve to release it.

Possible causes:

  • There is oil in the cooling system. The unit needs to be flushed and re-gassed
  • Check that the filter dryer is clear – it will freeze up if it is blocked.

On most SnoMaster units, you can move the temperature controller from the side of the unit to the front, to suit you.

You can choose which compartment you want as the fridge and which as the freezer. 

Both compartments go down to -22degC, and you can set different temperatures for each.

In general, the ideal temperatures are: -7°C / +2°C

Possible Causes:

  • The voltage cut-off is set too high. The in-built settings are: 10.0; 10.7 and 11.8 volt. The unit will run the longest when it is set at the lowest voltage.
  • The surrounding temperature is too high for the cooler and it is ‘running hot’. Keep the cooler out of direct sunlight and make sure there is plenty of good airflow and ventilation.

Possible Causes:

  • Check the connections between the cooler and the battery – if a fridge runs on 220 volts, most issues are not related to the unit.
  • The power supply is faulty. Please replace it.
  • Check the compressor – if the compressor and condenser do not start, replace the compressor controller
  • If there is a voltage protector, you can bypass it. (TAKE CARE!)
  • The compressor and condenser fan do not start up.  Replace the compressor controller.

Troubleshoot:

  • Check the voltage – the unit needs 12.6 volt at start-up
  • Check the 15amp fuse
  • Check the 12volt cable
  • Check the earth connections

No; the wiring is too thin, and the compressor will not get to the right temperature

No; to take advantage of solar power, the unit needs to be connected to a battery. The battery is then connected to the solar panels.

  • ‘Auto’ is the best setting. It is the most efficient combination of speed + current.
  • ‘High’ speed uses full speed or full revs. This setting is the fastest to set temperature and uses the most power.
  • ‘Low’ speed setting uses the lowest speed or revs. It will take a long time to reach the set temperature, but your power usage is low.
  • Use a cell phone charging cable to plug into the USB port on the remote, and then to an appropriate power source. (mains; car-lighter; etc)
  • Use the built-in solar panel to charge the remote by sunlight.
  • The cap is a dummy – you can remove it.
  • Inside, there are 2 smaller Brad Harrison plugs 
  • The left-hand side is ‘input’ and right-hand side is ‘output’.
  • Connect your 12-volt cable to ‘input’ on the left.

ZBC/ 15/208 Questions

  • The operational board may be faulty and will need to be repaired or replaced.
  • Bypass the voltage protector if one is fitted
  • The main relay board may be faulty and will need to be repaired.

The unit may not be pumping enough water to the reservoir.

  • Try cleaning the water filter at the base of the water reservoir (The filter looks like an inverted sewing thimble)
  • Clean the condenser
  • Make sure there is sufficient ventilation
  • The reservoir water temperature is below 7 degrees which means it is too cold. Set the ice cube selection one size lower.
  • Limit switch may be faulty and will need to be replaced.
  • The main relay board may be faulty and will need to be replaced or repaired.
  • Switch the unit off then push the water box to swivel all the way to the back. (NB Unit MUST be off). Switch unit on and off 2 – 3 times to recalibrate the unit.
  • The limit switch could be faulty and will need to be replaced.
  • The water box motor could be faulty and will need to be replaced.
  • Clean the water level pins in the water reservoir by using fine sandpaper.
  • If you have been using filtered or RO bottled water you will need to add a pinch of table salt to the water.
  • The water level sensor may be faulty and will need to be replaced
  1. Clean the ICE FULL sensor.
  2. Pour some boiling water over the sensor.
  3. The ICE FULL sensor could be faulty and will need to be replaced.

General8 Questions

  • Unlock your Control Panel
  • Press and hold Power and Light button
  • Set your preferred temperature
  • Turn your internal light on and off
  • Switch between degrees Celsius and degrees Fahrenheit
  • Release the 4 locking clips
  • Remove shelf as shown in the video
  • Release clip with flat screw driver to adjust height
  • Turn your battery box on and off
  • The 12v output is on the front of the box
  • Familiarise yourself with the positive and negative terminals by checking the black and red knobs at the upper left and upper right sides of the battery box.
  • See the input and output ports by turning the battery box around

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