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Troubleshooting

12v/220v Camping Fridges 8 questions
  • With dual bin units, only one bin is cooling (not maintaining the set temperatures – bin drops to max minimum temperatures automatically
    • The solenoid valve could be stuck. In an emergency situation, tap the valve with the back of a screwdriver to loosen it.
    • The temperature sensor on the thermostat could be faulty. Check the relays on older versions of the unit.
    • The solenoid valve may need to be replaced.
    • The temperature controller may be faulty. Temperatures may vary by 2 – 5 degrees.
  • Unit only freezes in one section of bin
    • There could be oil present in the cooling system. In this case, the unit will need to be flushed and regassed.
    • The filter drier may need to be replaced.
  • Unit reaches set temperature on 220v but not on 12v
    • This could mean that there is a voltage loss on the 12v system. In this case, follow the standard troubleshooting recommendation for possible voltage loss on 12v units.
    • Make sure that the voltage going to the unit is constant and above the start up voltage depending on the voltage cut out selected. The voltage cut out should be set at 10v.
    • Check that the power supply is not faulty
  • Unit does not reach set temperature
    • With 12v, make sure that the voltage going to the unit is constant and above the start-up voltage depending on the voltage cut out selected.
    • Make sure that the condenser is clean and dust-free.
    • Make sure that there is sufficient ventilation around the unit. The temperature may vary by a few degrees depending on ambient temperatures.
    • Check the condenser fan to make sure the compressor is not overheating.
  • Compressor stops and starts – unit not cooling
    • With 12v, make sure that the voltage going to the unit is constant and above the start up voltage depending on the voltage cut out selected.
    • Bypass the temperature sensor and the temperature controller. If the compressor does not start, the compressor electronics could be faulty
  • Unit is registering an OC fault or there is a high-temperature reading on the display
    • The temperature sensor could be faulty
    • If it is an OC fault, the unit will not start. In an emergency, bypass the sensor by bridging T and C on the compressor controller. This will cause the unit to freeze to the maximum temperature and any other temperature selection will not be possible
  • Unit won’t switch on with 12v:
    • Check  that the 15amp blade fuse next to 12v input has not blown.
    • Check that the fuse in the 12v cable male socket is still intact.
    • Try a different 12v cable to make sure the cable is not damaged.
    • If the unit switches on with 220v but not with 12v on older version power supply, connect wiring on GB+ with V+ (220v and 12v then cannot be connected at the same time.
    • Check the voltage on the vehicle outlet socket.
    • Make sure that the power supply is not faulty.
  • Unit won’t turn on with 220v:
    • Bypass the surge or voltage protector if there is one present.
    • Check that the power source is working by testing another appliance in the plug point.
    • Make sure that the power supply cable of the unit is not faulty by testing the unit in another plug point.
ZBC/ 15/20 8 questions
  • How to remove the grommit on ZBC ice maker
  • Can not adjust ice size:

    The operational board may be faulty and will need to be repaired or replaced.

  • Unit not switching on:
    • Bypass the voltage protector if one is fitted
    • The main relay board may be faulty and will need to be repaired.
  • The unit makes small blocks of ice:

    The unit may not be pumping enough water to the reservoir.

    • Try cleaning the water filter at the base of the water reservoir (The filter looks like an inverted sewing thimble)
    • Clean the condenser
    • Make sure there is sufficient ventilation

  • Unit makes one block of ice:
    • The reservoir water temperature is below 7 degrees which means it is too cold. Set the ice cube selection one size lower.
    • Limit switch may be faulty and will need to be replaced.
    • The main relay board may be faulty and will need to be replaced or repaired.
  • ICE FULL and ADD WATER light flashes:
    • Switch the unit off then push the water box to swivel all the way to the back. (NB Unit MUST be off). Switch unit on and off 2 – 3 times to recalibrate the unit.
    • The limit switch could be faulty and will need to be replaced.
    • The water box motor could be faulty and will need to be replaced.
  • ADD WATER light comes on:
    • Clean the water level pins in the water reservoir by using fine sandpaper.
    • If you have been using filtered or RO bottled water you will need to add a pinch of table salt to the water.
    • The water level sensor may be faulty and will need to be replaced
  • Ice full light comes on, but no ice is present or produced.
    1. Clean the ICE FULL sensor.
    2. Pour some boiling water over the sensor.
    3. The ICE FULL sensor could be faulty and will need to be replaced.
No questions matching current filter
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